My take on the Paul Costelloe AW22 fashion show
For his 37th year of London Fashion Week, Paul Costelloe presented an opulent interpretation of the lavish Renaissance period brought into modernity.
This year’s London Fashion Week saw an ostentatious opening when Tudor queen met enchanted forest nymph in the modern age at Paul Costelloe’s autumn/winter 2022 presentation. Taking place at the luxurious Waldorf Hotel’s Palm Court ballroom surrounded by hand-painted murals, gleaming white marble and golden balustrades, it was a sumptuous celebration of the Elizabethan era full of colourful prints, statement jewellery and Costelloe’s signature babydoll silhouette.
With his 37th presentation at London Fashion Week at 76 years of age, the self-proclaimed “Clint Eastwood of fashion” stuck to what he does best: classic cuts, flamboyant patterns, and references to nature and his Irish heritage. Fairy-like models with wild, bird’s nest hair and bejewelled eyes strode the runway with high neck ruffles, powerful, structured 80ties shoulders and cosy marl-twist knitwear styled with extravagantly printed bodies. The baroque print was inspired by the book of Kells and realised by William Clark, a traditional textile company from Northern Ireland.
A standout look was a shiny leather peplum waistcoat with a pleated golden mini skirt perfectly suitable for a contemporary night out – and the young influencers and Love Island contestants who filled the front row. “I wanted to take the message of history from hundreds of years ago and bring it into the modern lifestyle,” said the designer in a backstage interview.
And so he did! The ultra-feminine collection screamed royal opulence as traditional elements were combined with over-the-top splendour. Voluminous brocade dresses with puffy bell and Juliet sleeves lined up with ruffled mini skirts and oversized wool coats. There was radiant Renaissance gold, followed by Tudor styles in midnight blue, ochre and rich Van Dyck brown to midi dresses drenched in deep crimson, a colour supposedly reserved for the Queen in the Elizabethan era. And what would a queen be without her crown jewels? Costelloe decorated his models lavishly with big statement earrings, intricate necklaces and eye-catching rings, specially commissioned from Nidhi Creations of India and Bláithín Ennis of Ireland. Even the tights and boots were embellished with sparkling gemstones and shimmering pearls.
After two turbulent years shaped by covid, exit restrictions and digital fashion shows, Paul Costelloe brought back the glory of past days. This return to historical fashion seemed appropriate given the excitement of the Queen’s recent platinum jubilee. “It’s a nod to Queen Elizabeth, who is 70 years on the throne. England has maintained the monarchy for better or worse, richer or poorer, but at least they have maintained it,” Costelloe said. And just like that, as Paul Costelloe dances elegantly with one of his models in a carmine red brocade dress to the sound of medieval waltz music, the fashion world has maintained its glamour.
Header image: © Paul Costelloe, Facebook page
Lara Milena Grobosch 